Cozumel Teardrop-shaped Cozumel has seen some hard times - Spanish invasion, death by smallpox and a flailing economy - but these days it is a calm, charming island with a prime diving reputation. Known as Ah-Cuzamil-Peten (Island of Swallows) by its earliest inhabitants, it is Mexico's largest and most populated island. Thanks to a Jacques Cousteau documentary on its world-class reefs it has been a favorite international diving destination since 1961. It is literally swimming with diving sites - about 100 have been identified around Cozumel, and at least a dozen of them are shallow enough for snorkeling. Area: 301 sq km Orientation Isla Cozumel, in the Mexican state of Quintana Roo, measures 53km (33mi) by 14km (9mi) and sits 71km (44mi) south of Cancun. It's 19km (12mi) off of the Yucatán Peninsula's east coast. The island's only town, San Miguel de Cozumel, is easily traversed by foot. Its waterfront boulevard is Avenida Rafael Melgar; along Melgar south of the main ferry dock (the 'Muelle Fiscal') is a narrow sand beach. The main plaza, Plaza del Sol, is just opposite the dock. Ancient Mayan ruins worth visiting lie in the north and south parts of the island. The nicest beaches, Playas San Francisco and Palancar, start 14km (9mi) south of San Miguel, while the world-famous coral reefs are off the island's southern shores. Much of the east and northeast region of the island is 4WD territory - and provides great opportunity for peaceful escape. The airport is a mere 2km (1mi) north of town; there is a minibus that will take you into town. Unfortunately, no minibus service runs the other way, so from town you'll have to take a taxi to return to the airport.
Facts for the Traveler Time Zone: GMT/UTC -6 (Central Standard Time)
The busy winter tourism season, when prices reach their peak, overtakes the island from mid-December to April. This time of year is attractive not just because it's winter in North America and Europe (and you can make friends back home jealous with your souvenir tan), but also because it's not raining and the heat isn't unbearably muggy. May, the end of the dry season, and June, the start of the rains, sees Cozumel at its hottest and muggiest - don't come at this time, if you can help it. Summer tourists start pouring in during July and August, which are hot, with temps in the high-80°F to low-90°F (30-33°C), and not overwhelmingly rainy. September and October are less rainy and a lot less crowded. The ideal time to arrive, however, is probably November through to early December, when it is even drier and quieter. Events Like much of the world, Cozumel celebrates Carnival come late February or early March. Costumed revelers, fantastic floats on parade, and music and dancing galore make up the festivities. Things also get busy in the land of the Maya during Semana Santa (Holy Week); it culminates with Easter Sunday, an official holiday. Cinco de Mayo (5 May) commemorates the 1862 end of Mexico's occupation by French forces and is also an official holiday. The country comes alive with patriotism again on 16 September for Día de la Independencia, which sees Cozumel hopping with parties, food and fireworks. On 2 November, Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, is a time to pay tribute to the departed - every cemetery comes alive with festive visitors. Around 12 December is the Día de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, or Day of Our Lady of Gauadalupe, which honors Mexico's national patron. It is celebrated in Cozumel with a race around the island followed by a party into the wee hours.
Attractions Arrecife Palancar The reefs are where it's at for prime scuba diving off this island. One of the best is the kilometers-long Arrecife Palancar (Palancar Reef), where stunning coral formations and a 'horseshoe' of coral heads offer some of the world's finest down-under - all at an amazing 70m (230ft) visibility. Underwater photographers should come ready to shoot like mad. The water around the reef is about 24m (80ft) deep, providing pros opportunities for fantastic deep-water diving. The north end of the reef, called Palancar Gardens, is shallower but just as gorgeous. There are caverns and plenty of brightly colored sea creatures. The Palancar Reef areas are popular, so their much-lauded coral is always vulnerable to attack. Be careful to leave the area no less pristine than it was before your arrival. To get to this reef, which is over a kilometer (not quite a mile) off shore, you can sign up for a day cruise or charter a boat from a tour agency. El Cedral This Mayan ruin, which functioned as a jail in the 19th century, is the oldest on the island, dating way, way back to AD800. It's not a very obviously alluring attraction, but is the most accessible of Cozumel's ruins; it's 3.5km (2mi) down a paved road that heads off to the left a kilometer or two south of Playa San Francisco's access road. The ancient structure is only the size of a small house, so keep your eyes peeled for it. El Cedral is thought to have been an important ceremonial site, and today there is a small stucco church sitting next to the ruin. Parque Chankanaab This park on the bay of the same name swarms with snorkelers, even though there's really not a whole lot to see in the water aside from a few brightly colored fish and some deliberately sunken artificial objects. However, its beach is a stunner; walk 50m (164ft) inland to reach a limestone lagoon that is home to a host of iguanas and turtles. You can't swim or snorkel here with the lovely little creatures, but it's a pretty place to view nonetheless. Also on the park grounds are a small archaeological park containing Olmec heads and Mayan artefacts; a small museum holding objects imported from Chichén Itzá opportunities to swim with dolphins or watch sea lions strut their stuff (for a price); and a botanical garden sprouting 400 species of tropical plants. Travelers with kids will appreciate the children's playground. Playa San Francisco A 14km (9mi) jaunt from San Miguel on Cozumel's west coast, Playa San Francisco is one nice sandy spread. And with white sands running for more than 3km (2mi) it's a popular spot, where locals and daytrippers from the cruise ships go to snorkel, relax and play beach games like volleyball. It's a great spot to picnic, or alternatively, pricey food is available at one of several restaurants within reach. If dive shops get your heart pumping, you'll find plenty to keep you occupied here. A little more isolated in nature, Playa Palancar, a few kilometers south, has calm jet-ski-less waters to its credit. It is a beautiful place for a swim. San Miguel de Cozumel Isla Cozumel's only town is San Miguel de Cozumel, and it is where you'll find many restaurants, bars, hotels, tour agencies, banks and other amenities. It is well-equipped to deal with the global influx - you can chow down on food ranging from vegetarian to Mediterranean to local mesquite-grilled chicken. The waterfront Avenida Rafael Melgar is generally bustling with cruise-ship tourists; wander off the track a little for a dose of the vibrant local scene. But before leaving Avenida Rafael Melgar, check out the fine Museo de la Isla de Cozumel, which presents a clear and detailed picture of the island's flora, fauna, geography, geology and ancient Mayan history. Well-scripted signs in both English and Spanish accompany the exhibits. Get your lesson on Coral 101 here before heading out to the reefs. Plaza Del Sol, the town's main square, is a popular spot for strolling, hanging out and people-watching, especially on Sunday evenings when all of the locals seem to be out, soaking up the atmosphere.
Off the Beaten Track El Castillo Real About 17km (11mi) from the Carretera Transversal, down the same intimidating road that leads to Punta Molas, are the large Mayan ruins known as El Castillo Real. The archaeological site, as well as the hike-in ruins a few kilometers away called Aguada Grande, are both quite far gone, their significance having blown off into the breeze some time ago. Still, half the fun is in getting there, right? Other ruins of interest include the temple at San Gervasio, which was erected by the Mayans as a tribute to Ixchel, the moon goddess of fertility. Female pilgrims came here from all over the region to pay tribute. San Gervasio sits between San Miguel and the east coast, northeast of the Carretera Transversal. Punta Celarain The southern tip of Isla Cozumel has a postcard-perfect historic lighthouse, which is accessible only via a dirt track 4km (2.5mi) from the highway. From the top of the lighthouse, built in the early 1900s, you get a special all-over view of the island below. Also making the Punta Celarain worth a visit is the on-site navigational museum. If you want to turn this trip into a full afternoon, stop off at some of the isolated beaches on your way - they're just a jump over the sand dunes. Punta Molas Head northeast, fellow traveler, and you'll find yourself at the deserted lighthouse of Punta Molas. But head out in a 4WD, as this point isn't the easiest to reach. If you decide to tackle this trip, fill up that gas tank and be aware of the risk. Once in the vicinity, you'll find some fairly good beaches and some minor ruins. The best camping spot along the road is at the lovely Playa Bonita. The East Coast For beautiful seascapes, head over to the eastern shoreline - it's as wild west as it gets on this here island. Punta Chiqueros, Playa Chen Río and Punta Morena are peaceful alternatives to the island's more crowded west-coast niches. Unfortunately, at many of the east-coast beaches the riptides and undertows can make swimming a precarious venture. Activities The 100 or so high-quality diving sites include Palancar Reef, Santa Rosa and Punta Sur. The most idyllic places to don your snorkeling apparatus are reached by boat. Half-day tours cost a pretty penny but are worth it, though you can save the fare by walking into the gentle surf at Playa La Ceiba, Bahía Chankanaab, Playa San Francisco and elsewhere. To get a little higher, you might want to give parasailing a go. Getting There & Away There's always something happening at Cozumel's international airport, which sees many direct flights from other parts of Mexico and the USA. Flights from Europe and other continents are usually less direct, routed through Mexico City or the USA. Another option is to arrive via the seas. Passenger ferries run from Playa del Carmen, and car ferries run from Puerto Morelos. Getting Around Aside from the minibus from the airport into town, there is no bus service on the island. Taxis are available, however. For a look-see at the sights, you could probably haggle with a taxi driver to give you a tour of the island, drop you at a beach, and come back and pick you up, and still pay out less than you might for a rental car. But for more freedom, a rental car is definitely the go; there are agencies aplenty around the main plaza. Bicycles are the most inexpensive way to get about. Restaurants to visit in Cozumel Downtown, Mexican cuisine
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